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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.